Reto and Yvonne, friends of ours, wrote this beautiful postcard about the recent trip to visit the Karma Kagyu Ani in Rumtek, Sikkim. They have joined this journey many times and deeply cherish their experiences there. Thanks for putting this postcard together. Enjoy reading, everyone!
Tashi Delek – may all good things come to you.
Following Switzerland, we flew to Bangkok (Thailand), arriving very early in the morning on 28 March, just in
time to experience the shockwave that reached Bangkok around 12:50, some 1100km south of the epicentre
of the 7.7 magnitude earthquake near central Myanmar. We stayed near the Airport, where buildings are not
very tall, even so, we were on the 5th floor, and we woke up to a swaying room and a little later hotel staff
banging on doors calling out to exit the hotel and assemble outside until an inspection of the building was
complete. Venturing out to the nearby market late afternoon, everyone behaved as if nothing had happened.
The following morning, the Airport was back to normal, and we could catch the flight with Drukair (Royal
Bhutan Airline) from Bangkok to Bagdogra in West Bengal, India.
Bagdogra International Airport is a small rural Military Airbase located near Siliguri and serves West Bengal,
India. It is a convenient access point to travel to Sikkim, and since our first visit back in 2017, there has been a
rapid progression of new infrastructure projects in the region. The airport facilities now look more like a
bustling public Airport rather than a military air base. The main road through Siliguri will soon have an
elevated Expressway aimed to ease traffic congestion on local roads, but right now, traffic still weaves its way
through a hair-raisingly massive building site. There is also a massive rail project by Indian Railways to connect
the state of Sikkim to the national railway network. The project will establish a rail link from Sivok in West
Bengal to Rangpo in Sikkim, featuring 14 tunnels, 13 bridges and 5 railway stations.
On arrival at Bagdogra Airport, we were quickly singled out by security staff and were patiently guided through
the immigration process without any issues and even had a plain-clothed security guard help getting and
caring our luggage to the taxi stand where our pre-arranged pick up was awaiting. Little did we know that we
had the privilege of being treated like VIPs on arrival, arranged by Tempa, owner of Deki Lodge in Kalimpong, who came in person to pick us up at the airport. Later, we learned that, until retirement, Tempa worked as
Airport Security Staff, and his wife is still managing the Airport operation.
The drive to Kalimpong was, as usual, an interestingly chaotic experience, trucks, cars, rickshaws, bikes,
bicycles, pedestrians, cows, chickens and other livestock, workshops, food shops, colourful villages, roadworks
and massive building sites all seemingly coinciding in a huge fusion of daily life.
Once we reached the winding roads through the mountains, we witnessed the devastating impact of
increasingly extreme weather events due to climate change in a region influenced by a Monsoonal weather
pattern. Last year’s Monsoon triggered massive flood events, mobilising unimaginable amounts of rocks and
sediments, clogging up and changing the flow of whole river systems and burying parts of villages along the
way under several meters of mud and rock. The main road was impassable for several months and is still being
repaired after substantial landslides and washouts collapsed whole sections of the road.
Along other sections, the road passes massive construction sites where the new railway project is located,
tunnels pop out of hillsides, linking up with tall iron railway bridges spanning across deep valleys.
Kalimpong greeted us with its usual hustle and bustle, as well as a traffic congestion that even the locals deem
annoying. At Deki Lodge, a cottage dating back to 1938, we were greeted by longstanding manager and friend
Kamal and a pack of barking dogs. We also got the room with the big balcony with fantastic views over the
town, including a printing workshop on a roof where the ladies spent the day screen printing great long lengths
of prayer flags, then hanging them up to dry.
Kalimpong is a great destination to recuperate from travel, get used to navigating busy streets, uneven
pavements, crowded markets, and acclimatise one’s senses to the colours, sounds and aromas of India.
There are also great shopping opportunities, from souvenirs to fabrics, religious items to artwork, visit the many
interesting local attractions such as the famous Haat Bazaar Market, Deolo Park and Viewpoint, Tharpa Choling
Monastery and Domo Labrang Library Cum Museum among some places, or relax at the Art Cafe with a Masala
Chai, delicious food, and a great view.
Having acclimatised in Kalimpong, we arranged a Taxi to take us to Rumtek in Sikkim via Rangpo. Rangpo is one
of the entry points into Sikkim, and is where Tourists need to get their ‘Inner Line’ permit to enter Sikkim, just
make sure you have passport photos and copies of every document, including the passport page containing the entry stamp, associated with the Indian e-VISA, given during the immigration process at the
Airport.
In Rumtek, we met up with a group of friends from the Origins Centre in Balingup, Western Australia, including
Lama Chime Shore and Lama Sonam. This is our third trip to visit our Friends at the Karma Chokor Dechen
Nunnery in Rumtek, and we were thrilled to find them well, happy and grown in strength.
On this trip, we stayed at Sungay Guesthouse, managed by Pema and her brother. The Guesthouse is located
within the grounds of the Rumtek Darma Chakra Centre and provides amazing views across the business
centre of Rumtek and the Himalayas beyond (when there is no cloud), unfortunately, the view of the
Himalaya was shrouded in clouds most of the trip; we just needed a good downpour to clear the sky of the
smog. Pema and her brother are amazing cooks, and we were treated to tasty breakfasts and evening meals
prepared using locally grown ingredients, much grown in their own vegetable garden, eggs laid by their own
chooks and milk, butter and cheese made from milk of their own cow. We also had access to Pema’s father,
Lama Tsultrim’s beautiful private Gompa to practice Puja.
The friendly armed guards at the main entrance leading up to the Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre eventually
got used to our coming and going and waved us through with a smile rather than wanting to see our passports
each time, however, they always appear to know of our daily activities…
The Buddhist establishment at Rumtek is the core religious centre for the Karma Kagyu lineage of Buddhist
teachings with His Holiness the 17th Gyalwa Karmapa, Thaye Dorje, as its spiritual leader, of around 900
monasteries, institutions and centres in 68 countries.
During this visit, we were able to build upon and expand our understanding, respect and friendship with the
Karma Chokor Dechen Nunnery and the broader Karma Kagyu community around Rumtek.
Karma Chokor Dechen Nunnery, Kagyu Nunnery, Rumtek, Sikkim
Since our last trip in 2019, the Nunnery has undergone extensive restorations due to the 2012 earthquake and
particularly bad monsoon seasons. The Gompa (Prayer room) is progressing and is awaiting traditional Tibetan
painting of the walls, pillars and decorative details. The construction of the new accommodation block and
school room is finished with improved sanitation, comfort and healthier living conditions.
Abbess Ani Karma Tsultrim Palmo, although carrying huge responsibilities for around 20 to 40 resident
Ani (nuns) aged from 3 to 60 years of age, Ani Tsultrim made it her task to share with us their generous
hospitality and lead us to many special places.
One such trip was to the Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre, including visiting the Karma Shri Nalanda Institute
teaching block and taking us beyond ‘closed doors’. The Golden Stupa is a central feature and contains the
ashes and precious relics of the 16th Karmapa, Rangjung Rigpe Dorje, who passed away in 1981.
On another occasion, Ani Tsultrim took us on a walk to visit the 18th-century ‘Old Rumtek Monastery’. The
original Karma Thubten Chokhor Ling monastery, also known as Old Rumtek Gompa, was founded by the fourth
Chhogyal Gyurmed Namgyal in 1734 and is regarded as one of the major Kagyupa monasteries in East Sikkim.
Before the establishment of the present Rumtek Dharma Chakra Centre, the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa, Rangjung
Rigpe Dorje resided at the Old Rumtek Gompa. We were privileged to enter sections of the Old Rumtek
Gompa usually off-limits to visitors, including the former living room and bed chamber of the 16th Karmapa.
We were privileged to have a very special experience receiving the Medicine Buddha teaching and blessing from Lama
Choyeng Dundrup (90 years of age). In the company of Ani Tsultrim and several excited Ani, we walked the
short distance down the hill to visit Lama Choyeng in his private residence to receive the blessing, followed by
a tour and refreshments at the Nedo Chedu Chokhorling Monastery – Nedo Chedu Chukhorling Monastery
A day tour with Ani Tsultrim took us to the Rey Monastery and Pal Karma Zurmang Shedup Chokhor Ling Lingdum
Monastery (locally known as Lingdum Monastery). Once again, we were made very welcome, and it was
wonderful to observe the immense respect and friendship shown between the ani and monks as we were
shown these very special Monasteries. Whilst marvelling at the traditional Tibetan artwork decorating
every surface, we learned about the many different deity depictions and the many hidden symbolic meanings.
Visiting a new monastery in its final stage of build was another special treat by Ani Tsultrim. The Pal Karmae
Sangha Duche Monastery at Zimchung, Rumtek, is a new construction that started in 2019 and is nearing its
completion. Experiencing the freshly painted, moulded and carved traditional Tibetan art and craft skills
displayed in its new crisp and at times still unfinished stage is impressive and a unique privilege to witness.
All the craft specialists, many from Nepal, include masters in sculpting, metal smithing, carpentry, painting
and tailoring, have their workshops and live on site. Their knowledge of Buddhist culture must be extensive to
be able to create their work accurately, including the many symbolic details.
Carpentry shop making everything from furniture to ceremonial drums and elaborate carvings
During the final days of our stay, it finally rained enough to settle the smog and clear the sky, and we finally got
our first glimpse of the Himalayas for the trip! Yeh!!!
Far too soon, our visit to the Nunnery and Rumtek had come to a close and with fond farewells, we took a Taxi
back to Kalimpong via the alternative, but very scenic route, locally known as ‘monsoon’ road, winding its way
across the mountains between Rangpo in Sikkim to Kalimpong in West Bengal. On the way, we stopped at
several scenic locations, including the Munsong Teesta Viewpoint, known for its exceptional views of the
Kanchenjungha mountain range and the meandering Teesta River, unfortunately, April is not the best season
to visit due to clouds concealing the views of the Himalaya. The Guru Rimpoche statue near Kalimpong is
another popular scenic stop, and we were pleased to see the auspicious site in its full glory of freshly restored
colours.
Whilst in Kalimpong, we revisited the Tharpa Choling Monastery, where the Domo Labrang Library Cum
Museum is located to purchase some more souvenirs. Whilst we waited for a freshly varnished wooden
ornament to dry, thanks to Lobsang Yunten, a resident monk at the Monastery, the Secretary of the West
Bengaly Ministry of Culture and Tourism visited the Museum, and afterwards we had an informal chat with her
whilst having Masala Chai.
All up we had a wonderful time in Sikkim, India.
Our next destination was back to Thailand to visit Khao Yai National Park, before returning to Australia.
Best wishes Yvonne & Reto
